This project was an absolute SCORE. I found the outer fabric at The Scrap Exchange, a creative reuse center in Durham, NC. They have a wall of fabric rolls in the back that are just $4/yard. It takes some digging but you can find some great gems in there (and great muslin fabrics.)
The fiber content isn't always marked though. I touched this and my sewing instincts said OH MAH GAWD ITS WOOL TAKE IT AND RUN.
I did and immediately did a burn test when I got home. If you haven't tried this, it's basically burning a small piece (or even threads if you refuse to sacrifice more) of fabric to test its content. Based on the way it burns, the texture and color of the ashes, etc. you can at least narrow it down. Wool is slow to burn and goes out when the flame is removed. The ash is dark, crisp and easily crush-able.
Which is exactly what my swatch did.
Three. Yards. Of. Wool. Coating. Twelve. Dollars.
I splurged on buttons from Mulberry Silks because 1) they were perfect and 2) I got fabric and lining for a coat for $15. I actually bought more than I ended up using and probably have enough for another project.
Pattern: Burda 6875
Fabric:Â
Wool glen plaid, green lining (unknown content) from The Scrap Exchange
Leather buttons from Mulberry Silks
Pleather accents on undercollar and pocket piping from Fabric.com
Changes:
The only fitting change I made was shortening the sleeves. I also added bound button holes and button-up cuffs. I also added a lot of internal pieces for structure. It's pretty typical for the big four patterns not to include any of these but they make a huge difference to the finished product.
I added a muslin back stay as well as multiple layers of fusible interfacing to support the jacket front (although less than I would do on other jackets. This pattern includes a dart at the roll line for shaping, a great detail that also cuts down on the internal taping work to shape the lapel.) If you're interested in a tutorial about the pieces I include or some directions let me know in the comments below! If you're interested in seeing more process photos you can check out my instagram feed.
Overall I like the pattern a lot and will probably use it again. I think a solid would show the neat pocket and dart construction at the front better. You can't really tell on the plaid but the right hand edge of the pocket welt is actually part of the dart. Basically, the shaping and the pocket all merge in a really neat way and it wraps slightly around to the back.
The shoulders seem a touch wide to me and feel a little 1980s (which I don’t hate, it also gives me Bladerunner vibes which I definitely don't hate!) It’s probably a combination of the shoulder pads as well as the fit, so I might shave a bit off the shoulders on future versions and use smaller shoulder pads.
The pattern directions in general are clear and the pieces seem well drafted (although I go off-script so much when tailoring I may not be the best judge!) I like the way the dart and pocket meet on the front, it’s a neat construction detail. Because of that, though, It would make it difficult to turn into a very fitted blazer or alter the front dart substantially (the latter could be done but it’s less of a quick fix!) It’s really better for an overcoat or boyfriend blazer style. I also found it a little difficult to visualize the pocket and dart construction at times and having made welt pockets before helped a lot. If you’re a first time jacket maker I would encourage making a muslin with the pocket construction just to get the hang of it.Â
Oh yeah, I wore it to a runway show in Raleigh too. Two very nice ladies told me I was their favorite style of the evening. Am I one of the cool kids now?
